In the 1970s, Himachal Pradesh could
boast of some of the most beautiful Himalayan hideaways
in the world. There was Manali, almost at the top of the
Kulu valley, with a pristine Beas flowing twenty miles
from its source, where one could walk, enjoy the views
or take off on some of the most magnificent Himalayan
treks in India. There was Dharamshala in Kangra, nestled
below Mcleodganj, the headquarter-in-exile of the
fourteenth Dalai Lama. There was Kasauli, at the
foothills, less than 40 kilometres from Kalka — a quaint
little town that existed in a 19th century colonial
time warp. And there was Dalhousie in Chamba,
established in 1854 by the British, which became the
summer retreat of Lahore’s landed and wealthy.
That was then. Today, barring Kasauli,
the hill stations of Himachal are a mess. My favourite,
Manali, is a total disaster. The Beas is polluted beyond
redemption; the approach to Manali on both sides of the
river is over-built by horribly bright pink coloured
cheek-by-jowl hotels with their glitzy signs; there is
filth everywhere; and traffic jams abound as cars and
busloads of tourists disgorge themselves for a couple of
days at a time to quickly tick-off the “places to see”,
play their boom boxes as loudly as they can, eat as much
street food as possible, chuck garbage everywhere, and
return satiated with their group photographs and their
Kulu socks and topis.
If Manali is bad, then Dalhousie is a
horror. I have gone there twice with my wife Radhika,
whose history is entwined with the place. Both her
grandfathers built their summer houses there in the
1930s to escape the heat of Lahore; and from her early
years, Radhika spent every summer gambolling in and
around Dalhousie.
Dalhousie always had high risks of
destruction. It is only 90-odd kilometres away from
Pathankot and, therefore, in high season, becomes a
convenient weekend sojourn for the many thousand Punjabi
families who have a car or an SUV. It is also culturally
considered as Punjab’s exclusive summer playground,
which carries with it additional baggage of noise,
merriment, shopping, eating and drinking. So, the
stretch of lower Dalhousie from Gandhi Chowk to Subhas
Chowk (the erstwhile Post Office to Charing Cross) is so
badly built up that you can see neither the snow clad
peaks on the one side, nor the deodar filled valleys on
the other. Every square inch is taken up by terribly
constructed holes-in-wall that pass off as hotels,
restaurants and shops. Rickety hotels are now being
constructed literally on no land, by building on
concrete platforms jutting out on to space that rest on
stilts driven into the hills. Once plentiful, water is
in such short supply in Dalhousie that every abode in
the lower and middle reaches need water tankers each
day. Garbage is thrown out of hotel on to the hillsides
and overflows on to the streets and gutters, making it a
paradise on earth for the warring troupes of rhesus
monkeys and langurs.
From ten in the morning, carloads of
tourists, their stereos reverberating with “balle-balle”
music, snake their way up to Bakrota in upper Dalhousie
en route to picnics at the reserved forest at Kala Tope,
Dainkund or the alpine glen at Khajjiar. The reserved
forest is hardly reserved at all. A beautiful three
kilometre walk along a deodar, fern and lichen lined
pathway can now be travelled by taxis after paying a
minor bribe to the gatekeeper. The daisy filled hills of
Dainkund now host wrappers, empty cans, plastic and
booze bottles. And Khajjiar, once a beautiful alpine
bowl amidst majestic deodars, now has ugly red-roofed
buildings that pass off as hotels and restaurants.
The only area worth staying in is the
upper reaches of Bakrota. But not for long. Estate
agents are rapidly flogging off plots at atrocious
prices. Soon there will pink hotels there as well, and
the remains of Dalhousie will be gone forever.
A succession of uncaring, myopic and
avaricious governments in Shimla have destroyed most
places of beauty of Himachal. Little do they know that
they have killed the goose that laid so many golden
eggs. One day they will. But by then it will be too
late.